A quality made raincoat chosen according to your lifestyle is an investment, which can pay-off it’s price multiple times. First and foremost it needs to keep one dry, but as any clotheshorse can attest you, it can make you look handsome in the same time.
April showers are getting closer by the time, so we felt compelled to tell you all about the various aspects of choosing the right raincoat(s) to compliment your wardrobe.
The invention of the original trench coat is still claimed by Burberry and Aquascutum. Thomas Burberry invented the waterproof gabardine fabric in 1901 and presented it in the trench coat style to the UK Army Office. The coat served army officers during the WV1 and WV2. The original version is a long (below the knee), double breasted coat with raglan sleeves and removable inner lining. Functional details like epaulets and D-ring and a belt also adorned the coat, which you can still find on some models, but does not serve their original purpose for daily wear in the city.
We can all recall the moments, which made the trench coat a fashionable piece of rainwear. Think Casablanca, Inspector Clouseau or Alain Delon in the Samurai. A raincoat of all raincoats the trench coat is a true classic today, a choice of well-dressed aficionados the world around. It looks best worn over smart outfits, however, shorter versions can look cool paired with your favorite jeans as well.
If you prefer maximum comfort and wear a lot of suits and sportcoats we recommend to get it with raglan sleeves, while over knitwear or a plain shirt a version with set in sleeves affords you to go for a slim, modern look. The original beige color is always good to go for, but we also like navy for an urban twist.
A single-breasted topcoat style rain coat is often time called a Mackintosh or just simply a Mac. Charles Mackintosh, a Scottish chemist invented a waterproof sealing technique by merging to fabrics and coating them is liquid rubber. This is how the first true raincoats came about, cut in the aforementioned top coat style. Mac coats are still ultra popular these days and you can find them in hundreds of brands selections. The shorter versions are still cover your suit, but we recommend to go at least mid thigh for more elegant proportions.
Our selection includes some quite incredible models in this simple and practical style. Kiton and Cesare Attolini pioneers the reversible version in some rather nice blue/gray or brown/gray or beige blue versions. Our favorite is this Attolini model, which features a striking Prince of Wales pattern on one side. If you think the „usual” is just enough, go for this Brioni. The classic length and the completely waterproof Loro Piana Storm System fabric makes this a considered luxury purchase.
The Sporty Solution:
If you more keen on a techy look, a parka-style rain coat is a right solution. Originally a heavy coat to climb mountains, today it is a well-preferred alternative by Italian businessmen, who use scooters to reach their workspaces. Don’t worry, if you don’t own one, the big, handy pockets and the packable hood will make the style still practical for your roundabouts. We like it best in shades of blue to be as versatile as it can be.
While these days dressing down is a usual norm in day to day dress, that does not mean that you should sacrifice quality, style, and personality. With this regard we would like to advise you on a tried and tested combination, which if chosen carefully signals character in an easy manner.
The history of tweed cloth goes back to the 1800’s when the production of sturdy wool cloth started along the river Tweed. Originally used for sporting apparel, mainly hunting, its popularity rose in the 1960’s and became used in the cities as well. The story of denim fabric is a long one, to begin with, made up as a five pocket pant it is an iconic garment featured in the wardrobes of most of us.
The idea of a tweed jacket paired with denim is surely not a new one. Robert Redford in ’Three Days of the Condor’ or ’Spy Game’ always comes to mind. While we think that in menswear it is unavoidable to look back for inspiration sometimes, our aim is to take these ideas and make them appropriate for today's standards. With this in mind, we present three looks where tweed and denim meet in elegant, yet casual combinations.
Kiton brings new life into tweed through it’s brown/blue color play and sleek cut. Giving the soft construction of the coat, it feels more like a robe, while still looking sharp. The Japanese selvedge denim in a blue/gray creates enough contrast for the coat to shine, while the overall monotone styling adds a modern edge to the look. If you pulled this ensemble off once, you will go back for it all time for several occasions.
Intricate, well thought out, unexpected: These are all attributes of the clothes Sartori Napoli uses to create its collections. Luxurious blended materials create new textures, always according to be the most beneficial for seasonal weather. Updated classic patterns and contemporary coloration offer new ways to wear tailoring with ease.
Below we highlight a few favorites from our collection:
The uneven, slubbed texture puts the classic Prince of Wales pattern in a new perspective. Made up as a sportcoat it is a bold, yet versatile piece of clothing. Worn with a crisp white shirt and navy tie, it is a smart look in a casual office environment. Dressed down with a navy shirt worn open and a pair of trusted jeans it helps you stand out even in chicest bars around the world. The alpaca/wool/cotton blend offers is cozy and light at the same time.
A great alternative to substitute your navy blazer. Dark brown is an underrated color for tailoring, this peak lapel jacket clearly shows it’s strength. It is dark enough to be formal for most occasions, which don’t require a suit while being different in a refined way. If this won’t be enough, the cloth is an hopsack woven from the blend of cashmere, silk, and linen. This means that you get the softness of cashmere, the strength and subtle sheen of silk and breathability of linen at the same time. All of this in a weight to be able to wear almost year round, while keeping a nice drape.
When you need to travel to attend board meetings all over the world, a wool/mohair suit like this is required. Mohair has an excellent recovery, which means it barely creases at all, not to mention it is cool and crisp to the touch. The subtle shadow plaid pattern gives another meaning to the fabric when looking at it from a close perspective. Peak lapels give the finishing touch, to fully support the Haute business concept.
The perfect jacket for summertime events. Be it the season finale of your favorite sports team or the wedding of a work buddy, this sport coat will put you in an upbeat mood, whenever you put it on. The wool/silk/linen blend wears is light and breathable without creasing too much.
It would be a mistake to call the title of the article original, Massimiliano and Giuseppe Attolini promotes their brand using the same term #timelesselegance. It is an honest concept rooted in the traditional Neapolitan tailoring context, applied for today’s connoisseurs and decision makers. A luxurious, but a discreet proposal for men, who take control of all aspects of their lives and always feel the need to surround themselves with beauty.
Never exaggerated, but always commanding, the cut of these jackets are truly „one of a kind”. Easily distinguishable, it is a silhouette, which has a precisely calculated amount of power and gentleness in it. Not only aesthetically pleasing, these jackets are engineered to offer a fit, which is hard to find off the rack. Softly constructed, with enough structure to keep an overall clean appearance. The signature high armhole of Neapolitan tailoring is represented here in its maximum effect. This special technique ensures free movement, while the body of the jacket sits in its place without any disruption.
Unique, specially commissioned fabrics form their collections, to match the exceptional handwork featured inside and outside in the garments. While most of the hand stitching is hidden inside, the „puntino” along the edges of the lapels and the hand embroidered buttonholes send the message of artisanal craftsmanship.
Our latest offering not only offers tailored garments but fine leather pieces as well and waterproof outerwear as well. The cashmere lined bomber jackets scream weekend getaway, while the sumptuous nappa leather topcoats being a desirable outerwear solution.
As we declared in our previous article, dressing up for the day ahead should be not only customary but a creative exercise as well. A perfect example of getting the best out of the wardrobe you have, to acquire a suit, which you can wear in several different ways. To do this you need to think outside a box a little bit, far off from the navy and gray worsted wool business suits. You need to first find the right type of cloth to do it, something which does not scream SUIT at first sight.
For winter a perfect material to do this is woollen flannel. It’s soft handle and warm texture makes it a more casual material, and it is easy to pair with other casual fabrics. It is the best if you find a patterned suit to do this, just make sure to avoid stripes in this matter.
It is best to go for a bold plaid, like the one in our example from Sartorio Napoli. This two piece can be styled up in several different ways, classic with a shirt and tie or „broken”, which means you either wear the jacket or the trousers combined for a more casual look.
While this maybe looks a bit bold first, it is much easier to pull this look off, than you might think. Sure it a bit dandyish, but there are times in life when a little bit of extravagance doesn't hurt. Always make sure to keep everything else simple, the best is always to go with a plain tie and a pair of nice derby shoes. If you don’t feel comfortable in the complete suit first, try the following.
A plaid flannel jacket will always smarten up your regular day-to-day outfits. Throw it over your favorite oxford shirt and jeans, wear it with a tie and pair of slacks for casual office day or pair it with a denim shirt and corduroys for an elegant weekend look. You don’t need a special occasion to wait for with these looks, the reason why a jacket like this is great to have is that it makes you look smart, easy and cool at the same time.
Checkered trousers are quirky for sure, but in the right shades, they also have a sort of FU quality about them. Paired with the cashmere shawl collar cardigan, this look is all about luxury leisure time. As much comfortable as your sweatpants, but much much chicer, this look will help you get a table at the coolest brunch places in town.
Sartoriale was always an ambassador of finely crafted tailored menswear. The appreciation of handmade tailoring and artisanal objects are the core values of the work we do. Our aim was always to supply men with rare, exceptional pieces, which helps them to define their aesthetics. We like to think that how we find pleasure in the art of dressing up, our customers get the same satisfaction out of it too.
Choosing the right jacket for the right occasion, harmonize a tie with a pair of socks in the same ensemble or finding the right shade of brown for your skin type are all such minute things, which makes life a more desirable one. Putting yourself together with purpose already makes your day a brighter one, while showing off your personality.
It is simply about more than just acquiring stuff, an act of consumerism. A quest for a more artful life, through your choices is what should be the point. Every new item in your wardrobe gives you new ways of expressing yourself through your appearance. Not to meet a certain social standard, just because you enjoy doing so.
What should you wear for the Christmas family dinner?
The holidays are all about comfort and celebration. Depending on family traditions there is a 'dress code' for the special get-togethers that happen over the festive season.
One of the measures of a good man is how to approach this important celebration of love and togetherness.
Start by ditching your office color choices of navy and gray and jump into the season of goodwill by donning a colorful outfit.
While it is never a bad idea to dress up, it is possible to feel a tad over dressed if sporting a jacket and tie in your own home.
Xmas Sweater Vest
That is why in our opinion it is best to go for 'smart casual'. You can always go with the time-honored classic, the Xmas sweater vest. However, don't feel that you must "full-Xmas" your outfit by wearing a Xmas themed reindeer motif. Try a smart-ish, warm and comfortable sweater, preferably in cashmere, or maybe the ultimate holiday print: Fair Isle.
Middle: Fair Isle cashmere crewneck, now at sale price
Right: Burgundy Cashmere cardigan by Canessa
Designer Cotton Shirt
To keep the look on the smart casual side, it is best to air that sweater with a button down shirt. White shirts work with anything, but on this occasion, they may feel a little too formal.
It all depends of course on how other family members dress for the festivities.
If everyone else really pushes the boat out with their wardrobe and wants to look their best, then follow suit. Just make sure every piece of your outfit works in harmony, i.e. do not dress up in a jacket, whilst wearing your favourite sweatpants at the dinner table. :)
Left: Blue casual Oxford shirt by Billy Reid USA
Middle: White arm band Oxford shirt by Thom Browne
Instead, a good option is to choose a well cut, comfortable and cozy pair of corduroys: bright ivy and earthy tones would work well in this respect.
Middle: Taupe corduroy pants by Rubinacci on sale at 60% off
Right: Navy Blue velvet cotton slim fit pants by Rubinacci on sale
Winter Boots and Shoes
If you need to leave the house, a good pair of boots is essential if you are lucky enough to experience Xmas snow this year. In this case, put on sturdy rubber-soled shoes with a smart upper.
OK, the overall look would be the absolute zenith of sartorial elegance, but when needs must and the going underfoot is snowy, slushy and slippery, Italian boots (as below) with cleated soles are as comfortable and as welcoming as can be.
Middle: Kiton brown suede military boots
Right: Kiton deer leather chukka dress boots at 60% less than original retail price
"The classic polo coat has always been considered the best-looking topcoat a man can wear." G. Bruce Boyer
One of the most prized clothing related inventions of Polo is the distinct double-breasted overcoat by the same name as the sport itself.
Originally a "wait-coat", which the players wore in between chukkas, it was a wrap style coat with a full belt.
The style has a louche, nonchalant attitude and certain casual elegance, which is rare to find in single garments.
See our version from Belvest
The Polo coat as we know it today, came to it’s final form later on. The definite heyday of the style was in the 1920’s and 30’s. Mimicking the players, it became the thing to wear for spectators as well.
In America, the key moment was in 1930 at the Yale-Princeton football game, when it famously outnumbered the racoon coat style and thereafter, the popularity of the garment soared.
It was helped along the way by being favoured by the greatest sartorialists from The Duke of Windsor to Gianni Agnelli.
(Brioni DB Olive Green Polo Coat currently on sale down from $7,250 to $1602.90)
The specific styling features are what makes the polo coat a prized menswear possession.
Double breasted with a notched Ulster collar, full length, set in sleeves with turnback cuffs, patch pockets and the half-belt on the back.
These lend a casual air to the garment, while being elegant at the same time. It also enables the wearer to wear it over a suit or to dress it down with a pair of jeans and chukka boots.
This sort of versatility is rarely found in other type of topcoats. That is why still today the polo coat is the choice of the menswear cognoscenti.
While originally this type of coat was made out of pure camel hair, today’s versions are mostly blends of camel hair, wool, cashmere or alpaca. The reason for this is that camel hair is indeed soft, light and warm, but it also tends to wear out fairly quickly.
Our favourite versions on Sartoriale are the red tweed from Belvest
and the gray plaid Sartoria Partenopea model.
Both the fabrics and the cut of these pieces were updated to modern standards. They are truly fresh interpretations, whilst maintaining respect to the original style.
While buying tailored pieces online can be a tricky experience, it has a number of advantages, which the personal shopping experience can’t offer.
Just to name a few: you can choose the environment, the people around you (probably to get the most out of it it’s best to browse alone, then ask somebody’s opinion, who knows your preferences) and you have all the time you need to make considered choices.
To make the online shopping experience even more worthwhile, we have created a list of tips, which helps you evaluate your purchases in the most effective way.
Start with the pictures, make a pre-selection. Your first impressions will always be the pictures on the online platform.
This can be a double edged sword, because to look at one picture of a garment will never be enough to get the pieces you will cherish in your wardrobe. Therefore a great way is to go through the complete selection and copy the links of the garments you like based on the opening picture.
Then start to examine them again one by one. There are three main aspects you need to decide about looking at the set of pictures about each garment.
JUDGE THE COLOR
One of the trickiest elements is to judge the cloth the selected garments is made from. Colors will never be 100% exactly the same in real life as on your computer screen. Lighter colors tend to be brighter, while darker colors tend to be more muted on screen.
ASSESS THE WEIGHT
Another aspect is finish of the fabric. Surface texture on the garments can define whether they are made out of worsted or woollen fabrics. One can also estimate the garment's approximate weight by assessing the fabric texture. At Sartoriale we always include basic information about fabric weights, which you can find in the description of the garments.
GET THE FIT RIGHT
Cut and proportion can be also determined, if you carefully look through all the pictures. First of all as with a real life purchase, you must gather information about the shoulder construction, is it more square or sloped, roped or shirt shoulder and how much padding does it have.
Another good tip is to visually cut a jacket in half, then look for the buttoning point on it, or look at the jacket's lapel in the same way. The length of the lapel in proportion to the overall length of the jacket is good indicator of its balance.
During this assessment process, it helps to actually put on one of your favourite jackets, see yourself in the mirror and look for proportions. Always check how your shoulders look in it, where the buttoning points are and how high the gorge of the lapels are.
Then get back to your screen and make a visual comparison of the two garments.
The same goes for trousers: the length of the rise proportioned to the overall length of the trouser can help you to distinguish, where the pants will sit/hang on you.
After contemplating the visual proportions you can test your ability by inspecting the size chart we put together for each individual item. Don’t forget, the tape measure is your friend. Make sure you ask a relative or a friend to measure you, or measure your best fitting garments by yourself.
Store the information somewhere safe and go back to it periodically when in need of a little extra help in deciding on a purchase.
If you have already progressed beyond the beginner level of sartorialism, you will know, how different items can be altered.
In this case it will be easier to know, what to check precisely on the sizing chart, where the important places are, where a few extra centimeters does not count that much.
THE LITTLE DETAILS
Then go back to the pictures one more time to look for styling details. They may not be so striking at first, but can be all important regarding your feelings towards the garment in real life.
For instance, consider the buttons, visible stitching, pocket shapes, lapel weight or the length of the slits on the back.
Again use your existing wardrobe pieces or photos that you may find elsewhere on the web to help in your investigation.
ASK US FOR ADVICE
If you have any questions about any particular garment, remember that we are always at your service on email at : firstname.lastname@example.org
We also offer a generous 'no-quibbles' returns policy should your purchase not be totally satisfactory
It happens fairly rarely that a designer defines men's dressing as much as Hedi Slimane did during his time at Dior Homme.
If you look through his collections today they still feel relevant almost ten years later, which is quite a feat in the incessant world of fashion. His most acknowledged silhouette was the skinny trouser, which still today is ubiquitous the world over.
Creating enduring, poweful looks is only one of his best assets, nailing to perfection single pieces is another. This is the reason why his creations for Dior Homme are highly sought after by fashion aficionados all over the world.
We were lucky to aquire a few truly mind-blowing garments from his last collection for the legendary fashion house: true collectors' items, in other words, museum quality pieces.
The black leather jacket could be a costume made for the new Blade Runner movie. It is something to be admired by urban villains, A bold, tough statement, which is actually quite easy to wear. Black on black on black is the look to go for.
The same safety belt detailing was used on the shearling jacket. A rather unsusual detail, which sets off these garments in an otherworldly way. As the styling shows, this is a piece, which needs to be thrown into the mix.
Acid washed denim or a pair of skinny flannel can do the trick here. The important thing with a jacket of this magnitude is to wear it with some attitude and panache.
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Dior Homme Black glossy biker jacket (on sale now)
Dior Homme Black leather zippers jacket (on sale)
At Sartoriale, we are proud to be the exclusive online retailer for Sartoria Chiaia... one of the best kept secrets of Neapolitan tailoring.
Chiaia Napoli began tailoring at the beginning of the 1970s. Their original trading name was 'Cenzi' when they were headed by master tailor of trousers, Vincenzo Annunziata.
Nowadays, Vincenzo continues to create perfect trousers, while his son, Gennaro makes the rest of the garments in the company.
Gennaro is only 29, yet he is swiftly gaining a well-deserved reputation as one of the best of the new master tailors in Italy.
He is famous for his innovations and rakish touches that he brings to respected Neapolitan traditions.
His modern take on details, patterns and cutting adds flair and joie de vivre for his younger clientele and has shone the spotlight brightly on Sartoria Chiaia in the world of gentleman's tailoring.
Today, Sartoria Chiaia not only offers bespoke, but also a small-scale ready-to-wear collection as well.
The RTW line is made in-house, and to the same exacting standards as the bespoke pieces. This results in a completely handmade garment from the canvassing to the shoulder contruction and not least the hand finishing. This level of quality is very rarely seen on any RTW garment: the attention to detail is on a par with top quality bespoke makers.
If you browse through our selection, you will probably find that the cut is not for the timid. Exaggerated lapels ending in a high gorge are a mainstay. This make the jackets modern and sexy, without straying into the realms of 70s kitsch.
The construction is always soft and light with enough structure to create appealing shapes. Trousers come mostly normal-waisted and pleated and tapered to a slim hem. They are truly a pleasure to wear, the sharp lines making them formal, while they wear more comfortably than your favourite 'at-home' sweatpants.
This modern sartorial look is imitated the world over these days, however few makers pull it off in a way like Sartoria Chiaia.
Cut, construction and finish make these garments easy to wear; you forget about them after you put them on. We particularly like that, with a few exceptions, they use hardcore, classic tailoring fabrics, and their clothes are always weighted to perfection.
To ensure that you look your very best every day, it is prudent to become more than familiar with the patterns and fabrics that make up your menswear. Every well-suited man should know the difference between pinstripe and chalkstripe, for example.
Not only does it help you to put together your ensemble with confidence and care, but this knowledge can also be a great conversational piece when somebody inevitably enquires about your fantastically-fitting suit. Why not be the guy who can inform on the subject of Prince of Wales versus glenplaid check?
We would advise that it is far better to chat about interesting tit-bits concerning your outfit, rather than simply name-dropping/boasting about the maker of the garment you are wearing.
So, if you've ever really wanted to know the real difference between plaid and gingham, then read on for a quick guide to every fabric and pattern used in quality menswear tailoring.
This tightly woven twill fabric was invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879 as a waterproof material to be used for the original Burberry trenchcoat. This tight and robust weave makes it a durable, hard-wearing fabric, which when woven in worsted wool, it is ideal for business suits for autumn and winter.
Birdseye is a small diamond pattern, with each diamond having a center dot. It is woven from two differently colored yarns, which greatly effects the overall look of the cloth.
If the colors are low in contrast, the effect is more subtle, lending a more formal appearance to the fabric, as seen in this gray business suit below from Isaia Napoli. A higher contrast pattern usually works better for more casual wear.
The nailhead is a micro pattern, only visible from close distance. IN the same manner as the birdseye, it is created from two different colors to give an uneven visual effect. Given its nuance, it is a commonly used fabric for business and evening wear, as personified in this Daniel Craig-esque Sartoria Partenopea suit.
Herringbone is one of the oldest fabric patterns known to mankind. In fact, before being used in clothing, this motif could trace Its origins back to around 580 BC, when it was used as the composition for the road systems of the Roman Empire.
From England to Italy, every nation that has ever cared to dress well has designed their own interpretation of this pattern to wear as shirts, knitwear, tailoring or outerwear.
As with all decorations used in menswear fabrics, the smaller the pattern, the more discreet it is, as exemplified by this Peacoat Jacket below by the masters of tailoring at Kiton.
Pinstripe means business - serious business. When you think of this thin striped cloth in suit form, immediately, images of powerful lawyers and investment bankers spring to mind.
It looks best as a worsted wool and it is best to combine with a plain or simple patterned shirt/tie combination, as shown below in a 'sophisticated to a T' bespoke example from our friends at Rubinacci.
Incidentally, to really push that high-powered city broker look, wear pinstripe in a double-breasted navy suit.
Chalkstripe is the more flamboyant brother of the aforementioned pinstripe. Chalkstripe is a thicker, more noticeable version of vertically striped suiting fabric.
From Fred Astaire to Cary Grant, we can thank the golden era of Hollywood for popularising this classic cloth.
Unlike pinstripe, it looks best on a heavier base, which mostly means flannel.
Evenly-sized checks in two or more colors make gingham an always interesting pattern option. In large checked version, think country singers of yore, but in subtly sized check, it can make for a statement-making dashing sportcoat or jacket, as with this stylish number from Belvest below.
Glenplaid is a normally found in woollen fabrics with a pattern design of small and large checks usually worked into black and white hues or muted browns.
The essence of the pattern is two dark lines with two light stripes, which then cross over with four dark and light stripes. As soon as you see this eye-catching check, you immediately think of Scottish country estate.
Despite its Scottish origins, this is a stunning example below of Glenplaid in Neapolitan tailoring from Kiton.
Windowpane is formed from two perpendicular pinstripes. This pattern is a definite sign of clothing connoisseur who takes great interest in looking sharp.
Depending on the colorway (the range of combinations in which a style or design is available), this pattern can work in the boardroom, for a club, or doing country sports.
Who has worn Windowpane to greatest effect recently? We loved the Tom Ford piece that Daniel Craig wore as James Bond in Skyfall.
Glenurquhart check dates as far back as 19th Century England. It is one of the most famous fabrics in traditional menswear.
This graphic pattern makes up wonderfully either as a suit or jacket, or if you prefer to show a more serious side, choose an overcoat in this wonderful design.
This uber stylish suit from Sartoria Partenopea superbly shows off the instant impact of a glenurquhart check.
PRINCE OF WALES CHECK
A bolder version of glenplaid is the Prince of Wales check, named after Edward VIII, who was a great champion of elegant menswear.
What is the difference between glenplaid and Prince of Wales check? The subtlety lies in the arrangement of checks. There is a base check usually in a plain color, such as gray, and then on top another check is added, which usually puts a brighter color into the overall look and mix.
This allows for a lot of opportunity to mix it with myriad colors and patterns to come up with infinite results. However, we advise to stick with two (maximum three) patterns per look.
The Prince of Wales check is another pattern that results in an impressive crisp business suit, as you cans see in this elegant Cesare Attolini handmade flannel suit below.
Another Scottish stalwart, the duo-toned Houndstooth pattern is here to stay.
This broken check was designed to be worn on informal occasions. In other words, it's best not to wear this pattern as an entire suit. Instead, match a houndstooth blazer with solid color pants, or conversely, try houndstooth pants with a solid color jacket (or perhaps a navy blazer).
We suggest avoiding black and white houndstooth, as this is a very popular choice in ladies style, so select a confident blue, gray or black tone.
To know how to dress like a stylish gangster from the movies, of course one must reference the back catalogue of Francis Ford Coppola, Martin Scorsese, Robert De Niro and Al Pacino.
The Daddy of all Mafia movies has to be The Godfather (or is the sequel, The Godfather: Part II better?) where Marlon Brando, De Niro excel as Vito and Al Pacino as Michael Corleone.
As they shimmer on screen, it is mostly due to their unforgettable roles, but let's not forget that their mafioso tyranny is matched by a killer dress sense.
So, let's focus on a few mafia suits in the movie looks, to prove that these outfits can also be worn in real life, without the need to resort to a life of crime.
Vito Corleone - The Godfather
A grey herringbone suit is one of the enduring classics of menswear.
This mid gray version by Anderson & Sheppard is a touch more casual than the usual dark options. However, it still works just as well for business.
The ink blue chambray shirt is a rather wonderful pairing with the suit, creating depth and character. Finished off with the floral tie from Kiton, this is a look for someone who likes to achieve a certain nonchalance whilst wearing a formal suit.
Michael Corleone - The Godfather I, II, III
Al Pacino's look is perfect to wear at an elegant evening event when the dress code is unspecified.
A three-piece-suit always conveys due care and attention from the wearer, not to mention the form-fitting silhouette it achieves, as personified by this elegant black suit by Rubinacci
Alain Delon, Jean-Paul Belmondo - Borsalino
A lesser-known movie, although Alain Delon and Belmondo are both seriously rakish in it, whilst getting into all sorts of trouble around the streets of Paris.
Their wardrobe consists of all the power dressing moves you can imagine. It is extremely difficult to select just two looks from the plethora of super stylish outfits.
In the end, we plumped for the double-breasted silhouette: a style which can channel the "I am far better than you" vibe.
DB suit: Not only the perfect fit, but the great attention to detail makes these looks very special indeed; to be exact, the quirky bow tie of Delon and the refined shirt/tie combo of Belmondo.
In a trimmed-down, modern cut, these looks are just as compelling as they were 60 years ago.
DB overcoat: Do yourself a favour, get a DB overcoat! There is nothing more handsome and warm to wear in winter.
Not ony does it work with suits and flannel trousers, but it is also killer with jeans and suede shoes.
Find yourself a robust, thick cloth, wither in glenplaid or herringbone, and you will have a winter favourite for a lifetime.
Ace Rothstein - Casino
Another legendary power dresser from Gangster films was Robert De Niro's character in Scorsese's 'Casino'.
Ace Rothstein was 'the boss of bosses' and he definitely looked the part, being as flamboyant as Las Vegas was at the time.
Wider lapels always help to create a powerful vibe. It is advisable not to wear them too wide, as this can overdo the retro feel.
A dark gray suit like De Niro's Casino look is fairly straightforward: a uniform piece which can be styled to your personality. In De Niro's case it was with a flashy matching shirt and silk tie in opulent cream.
It's great for the look of a casino owner, but we would suggest to only wear this on those extra special occasions!
A gun club check-pattern in a sport coat is a fairly complex one. It cries out to be paired with solid colors, just like in the movie.
A great way to make sure you don't look like a canary in a jacket such as this, is to pick a color from the pattern and wear a shirt in that color to retain some consistency.
It's true that in this case, yellow is a rather strong statement, to say the least, but for De Niro, it clearly works beside the pool of The Bellagio.
No more long summer holiday breaks, so it's definitely time to get back into serious work mode.
To elevate your office clothing this Fall, take a few tips from our Sartoriale stylists and be admired around the company for your stylish menswear choices.
1. A tailored suit
A well-fitting suit is a great investment. It commands attention, shows character and emits style.
Rolling into the office in an immaculate ensemble of a well-chosen suit communicates that you respect the work you do and your colleagues around you.
Not to mention the dynamic first impression that you will make when meeting new clients. A new bespoke suit is also a great conversation started/ice breaker to fill up that small talk before getting down to business.
Let's assume that you already have dark business suits in your wardrobe, but you would like to add a little bit of spice to your appearance.
One of the best ways to achieve this is with patterned fabric: subtle and low contrast patterns are the best solution. They give off an aura of taste and refinement, rather than being seen as a bit too flashy or eccentric with more garish patterns or colours.
This Sartoria Partneopea model features a small houndstooth pattern which exemplifies something discernibly different but still discrete enough to be office ready.
It is made from worsted flannel fabric, which makes it ideal for autumnal weather.
This full canvas Rubinacci suit is a bolder option to make an impact in your most important business meetings.
Wide peak lapels make this suit a real power player: they portray an image of someone ready to make the big decisions. This suit separates the men from the boys.
Additionally, it is available at an astounding discounted price right now in the Sartoriale Menswear Sale.
2. A fine pair of shoes
'Judge a man by his shoes' is a common business axiom. Imagine the negative repercussions of entering a serious business negotiation wearing converse sneakers or distressed retro Nikes!
Moreover, there is a warmish and satisfactory glow that comes over you when you buy an excellent pair of hand made shoes to last a lifetime.
A new color, elegant detail or engineered shape can lift your whole outfit to be a cut above the rest.
The double monk style became very popular in recent years and rightly so. This rakish pair above from the master cobblers at Kiton raise your look to an exalted level. They will make a statement in the office, therefore it is best to opt for black for business wear.
With an original retail price of almost 3,000 dollars, they are available for a steal now on Sartoriale for less than half price!
Burgundy is one of the most underrated colors in menswear. Its dark rich hue looks wonderful in the colder months. It is a great substitute for dark brown or black and a seriously stylish footwear choice.
This Kiton Oxford wingtip pair is especially great for Fall, given the grained leather they are made from. At $1,350 they are fantastically discounted from their RRP of 2,970 USD.
3. A handmade silk tie
It is not mandatory to wear a tie for business in certain industries these days. However, we would still advise you to wear one, simply because a well chosen tie completes the tailored look of a shirt and suit.
In addition, wearing a tasteful tie shows that you are a man who is able to navigate between choices, be decisive and you are serious about how you come across in business.
Tie choice is dependant on the rest of your outfit, of course, but there are a few true classics that you can never go wrong with.
Everybody should have a solid navy blue tie in his closet. To stand out from the rest though, choose a wool-silk blend for an affluent feel and impressive finish. This seven fold navy blue silk tie from Kiton (above) is the pinnacle of this look.
An ancient madder silk tie is the choice of a gentleman who knows what's what in life. It can be a bold look to pull off, but it will be worth in the number of deals you close.
The Brown silk square medallion patterned tie (from Kiton pictured below) is slightly extravagant, but not too much. It's also on sale right now
Take a browse through all of our luxury silk ties here.
4. A pair of luxury socks
Socks are one of those standard Christmas presents brought for middle-aged men and Dads around the world. However, they are usually boring, purchased without too much thought, probably not the highest quality and worst of all they are often novelty socks that cannot be worn outside the house by any right-thinking individual.
At Sartoriale, we are all about stylish pants, socks and shoes combinations, but we would urge you to steer away from overly big patterns and loud colors in the socks department.
The answer is burgundy again which is a great choice with a dark gray suit and black shoes. They will also work nicely with a dark blue suit and brown shoes. These 100% cotton socks from Kiton are the perfect business choice. (They are also listed on Sartoriale now at a 60% discount off the original retail price)
Please ensure you always wear knee high models during office hours. When sitting in a meeting, showing some shin between your suit and socks is a huge business no-no and sartorial faux-pas!
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As the last rays of summer dwindle over the horizon, it's time to think about wardrobe choices for autumn.
So here's a quick thought on essential clothing selection from our Sartoriale stylist with some top picks to see you through September and October 2016.
1. Denim Jeans
A pair of fresh raw denim jeans is a definite sign that the weather is cooling down and fall will soon be upon us.
While it takes a few rugged wears to break them in properly, your jeans then become your best friend for the season.
Match them with sneakers (or the chukka boots below) to bring out their best.
2. Chukka boots
When buying items that can work with almost anything in your clothes closet, you can't go far wrong with a pair of chukka boots.
Made in a sleek last with a chiseled toe, this beautiful pair by Kiton can work in an outfit with haute tailoring just as easily as with your casual staples, too.
Another great feature is that they are hand made from deer leather, which is so incredibly soft that they feel akin to slipping on your favourite comfortable pair of house slippers.
3. Sport Coat
A cashmere sportcoat is the ultimate sign of casual sophistication, never mind being absolutely delicious to wear.
The warm soft feel of the fabric, combined with the light Neapolitan construction offers unrivalled feel for the proud wearer, whilst simultaneously nailing the smart casual vibe.
4. Button Down Shirt
When the occasion doesn't call for a tie, your go to item should be a dapper button down shirt.
Kiton are world-renowned for making some of the finest shirts on the planet. The 22 step painstaking process that goes into creating every shirt by the the Kiton master tailors can instantly be felt when you slip one on.
Light blue is an indispensable and safe choice. However, it is always good to add a touch of personality to your outfit with details; here it is the subtle houndstooth pattern in this sky blue cotton number below which is almost $500 cheaper than the RRP now on Sartoriale.
5. Rain Jacket
Wear the blue side along with your blue suit or dark denim. The tan version would go well with a gray suit or dark blue chinos.
It's designer, lightweight, water resistant, easy to carry around with you and unaffectedly stylish. What more can one ask for in a piece for your Fall wardrobe?
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When it comes to casual menswear, denim is the obvious and easy choice.
It is available in myriad fabrics and with washing, creates unique lived-in looks that personalise to the wearer. To style your denim to the max, wear with any number of short jackets (also known as Blousons).
So, with that in mind, here's a heads up on 4 different denim + blouson ideas to create a menswear weekend look to wear as the temperature drops a few degrees after the summer months.
Casual Look 1 - CALIFORNIAN COOL
This look is all about laid back West Coast style. The faded jeans and the white t-shirt is a respectful nod to the panache of James Dean in his timeless 'Rebel Without a Cause' outfit.
But to add a modern twist, we have chosen this buttery soft leather jacket from Lot78. The cut is biased in accord with your favourite shirts: short on the side and longer on the back. These small details make a big impact on the design and give the overall style that effortlessly cool vibe.
Match this jacket with your favourite white shirt or t-shirt and blue jeans for that casual, yet rebellious style.
Casual Look 2 - PREPPY STYLE
As the jacket is quilted, it works well for spring or fall and that detail around the collar raises this jacket above the average denim jacket. With an original price tag of $3250, this is an absolute steal now at its current Sartoriale Menswear Sale price of only 890 dollars!
The bold color of raspberry corduroy pants from Italia Independent (or these orange pants by Luigi Borrelli) may feel a tad extrovert for most, but when matched with this jacket, they present themselves as being 100% natural.
If the green stripes don't do it for you, then this outfit would also work nicely with this rather dashing Fred Perry Blue cotton t-shirt with white retro collar
Casual Look 3 - DESIGNER EDGE
Contemporary urban youth culture always plays a big part in any fashion designer's mind when putting together the next season for the catwalk collection.
This Alexander McQueen blouson is drenched in cutting edge rock n roll, crossed with a modern electronica vibe. It's perfect for going to see a gig, or a DJ set and even an opening for an edgy underground artist in an uber cool gallery.
Casual Look 4 - ITALIAN TOUCH
Despite flight jackets not being an Italian invention, the Italians were the ones who created the style for luxurious leisure wear.
The key to this look lies in the choice of fabric, which has to feel like the softest suede on the planet. There is no better outfit for a weekend capuccino on the piazza or visiting exhibitions in the city's best galleries and museums.
When there is an autumn chill in the air, opt for a knitted polo shirt to wear under the jacket. Apart from keeping you warm, this look has a certain ambience of sophisticated mid-century gentleman to it.
Then finish off the look with a brown leather Kiton casual belt and a striped cotton long-sleeve polo: a brown striped number by Luciano Barbera (worn by the model above) or a gray beige striped cashmere sweater from the legendary sartorial house of Rubinacci.
This style also works perfectly well by substituting the jacket for a more traditional beige suede, like this bomber jacket by Kiton, which a RRP of $5,750, but available on Sartoriale now for a very nice price of $1,450.
Before the summer escapes us for another year, let's extend the warmth of August and not contemplate going back to the office just yet.
We can achieve this by reminding ourselves of balmy summer evenings with a look at some chic Mediterranean-based movies with beautiful coastal settings and unforgettable screen characters.
Whilst yearning for summer to last we can also steal classic menswear style tips from these timeless films.
ALAIN DELON CASUAL LOOK - PURPLE NOON
Alain Delon plays "The Talented Mr. Ripley" in the original, not the Jude Law/Matt Damon remake. Oozing cool in every shot, Mr. Delon is perfectly dressed while carrying out his devious plan.
While the navy trousers/light blue shirt combo is commonly associated with office wear these days, Delon proves that, if you choose your fabrics well, this style also works seamlessly onboard a boat deck.
With a linen shirt and the cotton trousers rolled up with a maritime twist, shoes are not even required to pull off this look.
(By the way, find out everything you need to know about Linen here)
Get the 'Purple Noon' look
CARY GRANT'S SUIT - TO CATCH A THIEF
The Hitchcock classic follows Cary Grant as "The Cat", an infamous con man in the luxurious setting of the Cote D'Azur.
From Breton top, worn with ascots to a perfect black tie ensemble, Mr. Grant's outfits are timelessly elegant. Cary Grant always chose all of his effortlessly cool wardrobe for his roles, which rightly put him up on a pedestal for men's style that few have ever matched.
A light gray suit with a crisp white shirt is a fail safe combination, which will work in any setting and for virtually all skin complexions. This outfit allows your personality to come to the fore, not your dress: Foolproof discreet elegance personified.
Get the 'To Catch a Thief' look
RALPH FIENNES' CASUAL STYLE - A BIGGER SPLASH
Ralph Fiennes and Tilda Swinton display great chemistry in this sun-drenched thriller.
Shot on the remote Italian island of Pantelleria, it is a compelling tale of love/hate relationships.
Ralph Fiennes plays a bohemian music producer, attempting to win back the love of his life. He executes the idea of "loosen up for summer" flawlessly.
Easy fitting clothes does not necessarily mean you need to be dressed in baggy sacks. Linen is the perfect material to pull off the look, it feels just better to not wear it too close to the skin.
Get the 'Bigger Splash' look
Rubinacci Beige straight fit pants
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The classic navy blazer is a staple of any well-dressed man's wardrobe.
It is truly an essential because it is a timeless classic which can be worn in a multitude of combinations for different looks.
You can dress up your navy blazer as in the picture below or you dress it down into a preppy guy style or for Casual Friday. A navy blazer is truly a 'good for all occasions' menswear essential.
But how should you wear a navy blazer?
Follow our guide below on everything you need to know about navy blazers, which answers the most common FAQs on blazer style and you shall be the embodiment of sartorial sophistication.
MEN'S NAVY BLAZER: STYLE GUIDE
1. HOW LONG SHOULD BLAZER SLEEVES BE?
When considering where blazer sleeves should fall, put on the jacket when standing upright: the end of your blazer sleeve should be no less than 1/2 an inch higher than the length of your shirt sleeve cuff.
In other words, the cut of your jacket sleeve should be slightly above the wrist line, always just exposing a little bit of your shirt cuff... but not too high to expose your cufflinks.
It is common for a poorly bought jacket to be overly long in the arm length - this is a school boy error, so do not fall foul of it!
2. WHAT COLOR PANTS SHOULD YOU WEAR WITH A NAVY BLAZER?
Do not wear black pants with a navy blazer - the two strong hues never harmonize well.
Additionally, never consider choosing a pair of navy blue trousers to complete your navy blazer outfit. The pants will almost certainly not be the exact same tint of blue as the jacket and will appear woefully mismatched. If a navy blue suit is your desire, then wear a navy blue suit, but do not attempt to concoct a suit from two disparate garments.
Pale colors or pastel colored pants work best to complement the assertive navy blue.
As you can see in the pictures below, chinos that are beige, blonde or white match particularly well with either a single-breasted or double-breasted navy jacket. It matters not if you dress your look up or down according to the social event, the blue blazer plus light pants is a classic look of acknowledged distinction.
GET THE LOOK - Navy Blazer and white pants
These hand made white slim fit pants, also by Sartoria Chiaia, are the perfect companion to a navy blue blazer.
3a. SHOULD YOU UNBUTTON YOUR JACKET WHEN YOU SIT DOWN?
In a word, yes!
If you sit down with your blazer buttoned up, there will be undue strain on the back panels, stitching and seams. So, definitely unbutton your jacket when seated.
3b. SHOULD YOU DO UP YOUR BUTTONS WHEN YOU STAND?
Yes, button up your blazer when standing.
Suit jackets, blazers and sports coats are all designed and tailored to be buttoned up to show off the cut of the garment to its best.
However, there are a few caveats...
Three button jacket
Never do up the bottom button!
The top button of 3 is optional, but if your blazer is well-cut, there should be no need to do up the top button to help with how the jacket sits on your torso.
So, with a 3-button jacket, the buttoning rule is: Sometimes, Always, Never
Top button: Sometimes/Optional
Middle button: Always
Bottom button: Never
Two button jacket
Again, never do up the bottom button!
4. HOW MANY BUTTONS SHOULD THERE BE ON A SINGLE-BREASTED BLAZER?
The short answer is: 2 or 3
Two Button Blazer
A 2-button blazer has the buttons placed lower on the jacket (this is known as the 'button stance').
This creates a deep V shape and gives the wearer the illusion of broader shoulders. This look can also be slimming and also it makes you appear taller. So, the 2-button choice is flattering to the wearer and is an absolute win-win.
Three Button Blazer
The three button choice is a much more traditional look; think Prince Charles.
As there are more buttons (than the 2 button variety), this looks and feels more buttoned up, literally.
There is a higher button stance which gives an impression of a shallower V. This can actually help if you are very tall. For instance, if you are over 6'2", the shallow V can work well to give nice proportions to your look.
Overall, the 3 button look is a silhouette favoured by the more refined, sophisticated and mature gentleman who has achieved what he wants in life and knows how to show it.
One Button Blazer
The one button jacket can look a bit too 'try-hard'. It is definitely for the younger man only, looking to fly in the face of traditional tailoring.
As a one button blazer exposes more of the deep V, it is the choice for those who wish to show off a particularly rakish tie or shirt to maximum effect.
GET THE LOOK - 2 button navy blazer
This Rubinacci bespoke navy blue sports coat is a completely unique item. Made from a wool mohair combination, double vented and fully lined, this brand new, hand made in Italy, jacket is currently half price from our original listing price in the Sartoriale Menswear Sale
5. WHAT POCKET SQUARE GOES WITH A NAVY BLAZER?
When it comes to matching a pocket square to your blazer, choose white cotton or one color linen for more formal occasions.
Printed silk or some quirky color and/or patterned pocket square is the usual choice for more casual wear, where there is room to show off your unique character.
A white pocket square is truly the classic navy blue blazer choice, but for a more muted feel, choose a light or soft blue. A gold or pink pocket square injects frivolity and joie de vivre into your look.
All 3 pocket squares pictured above are brand new with tags from Kiton. All are 100% silk and any choice would pair perfectly with your navy blazer.
6. SHOULD I HAVE A CREST ON MY BLAZER?
Only have a crest if you personally have something to do with that crest; for example, if you are the member of a club or sports team with that crest.
A crest on a blazer is a real talking point and you will probably be asked what the crest is for, or what it means. If you have no affiliation or connection to the crest, it is a bit pretentious to have one on your breast pocket.
7. WHAT SHOES GO WITH A NAVY BLAZER?
You can complete your outfit with pretty much any footwear.
Match your shoe colour to your belt color, or perhaps to your navy blazer. You can go totally off-piste and have shoes that 'stick out'.
The only thing we would not recommend is to wear sneakers like Converse All Stars, as this passes too far beyond the line of 'dressing down' and comes off as looking too affected and will ruin your otherwise carefully selected appearance.
The gray suede cap toe Oxford shoes (above right) are again from Kiton and they can go either way into dressing up or dressing down your overall feel.
For more shoe ideas, have a browse through the entire Sartoriale shoe collection.
INTERESTING: Why are new blazer pockets sewn up?
Firstly, a well-tailored blazer goes through myriad stages of construction and many master craftsmen's hands, so the pockets are stitched up in order that they do not collect cotton, wool, dust and fabric in the manufacturing process.
Secondly, if it is not a bespoke blazer made specifically to your individual measurements, it may be tried on by many customers before finally being purchased. With the pockets sewn up, no one can stuff their hands into them and misshape the cut before being bought by the eventual owner.
Then once you are the owner of the jacket, the question arises, should you open the stitches and use the pockets? The original purpose of the blazer pocket is a place for a gentleman to keep his opera or theatre ticket, or perhaps a cigar for the intermission!
You definitely should not place anything bulky in the pockets that would disturb the line of the jacket of the well-turned out man.
And finally, some dressed down blazer inspiration....
The navy blazer comes in many forms and can dress down to go supremely well with your best pair of road worn blue denim jeans!
As an homage to the men's style on display in the Oscar winning film, La Grande Bellezza, a good part of our last photoshoot revolved around the wardrobe of Jep Gambardella’s character.
A truly Italian production, the movie shows the author Jep, who is a key figure in the upper echelons of Roman high society.
Jep is originally from Naples, which is clearly shown through the costumes created for the film. Jep’s tailored garments were selected from Neapolitan sartorial institutions and Sartoriale favorites like Cesare Attolini and Kiton.
As told by the costume designer, Daniela Ciancio, Jep is "an old-fashioned man alive today" who is surrounded by "a world that has lost a certain elegance". We see him in the movie in all kinds of social situations from his birthday party to a funeral, and he always dresses with a clear sense of occasion.
While his night time attire is on the more sober side (letting the women beside him shine), in his daytime wardrobe choices he clearly shows his colors and unique style.
In true Capri style the basis of these outfits are white, topped off with a bright red, yellow or blue blazer. These are the outfits which immediately won us over and they show that in the right context, nobody needs to be afraid of injecting a certain panache into his style... but at the same time remembering to stay on the right side of discretion and not to overdo it in the style stakes.
To put it another way, a little bit of flamboyance never hurts, while a bit too much can really have its negative effects. Jep Gambardella puts on a fine balancing act and therefore we applaud his character in La Grande Bellezza and his sartorial elegance.
We have put together three of the best menswear looks from the film (below) with outstanding blazers from Kiton and Isaia as the centrepieces of sophisticated outfits that perfectly emulate the style of La Grande Bellezza... but also available on Sartoriale at fantastic prices well below their original retail price. (Click on the links below to see full details of each individual item)
Red Jacket look
Yellow Jacket look from La Grande Bellezza
White Jacket look from La Grande Bellezza
Following on from our recent lifestyle article, "Tips for packing for the ultimate summer weekend", a recently-acquired wonderful vintage piece of luggage gave us the inspiration to put the story in a slightly different perspective.
Imagine yourself on a train from Paris to the Cote d' Azur. After a few days of culture, now, the only things on your mind are the beaches, fine dining and night life in the Mediterranean style.
The "more than perfect" climate of the French Riviera requires that you pack in your weekend suitcase a lightweight, chic sportcoat for the evenings; something that has the required style to be at home for a stroll along the seafront and also gain you immediate entry to all the grand casinos.
Sartoria Chiaia Sportcoat
This Chiaia sportcoat is a true rariety, which is as light as a feather and is extra special in both fabric and construction.
Kiton shirt and tie
A tie is optional in social summer settings, but one is recommended for a well put together look.
You can never go wrong with a traditional sky blue shirt. The soft, stretchy fabric of this Rubincacci casual shirt (below right) will feel gorgeous against the skin in the summer heat.
The button down plaid shirt from Kiton (above left) is an option to add a touch more color to your casual summer outfit and will serve you well in the sartorial stakes for any number of occasions.
Rubinacci & Kiton Accessories
Another weekend suitcase essential is a matching belt. If its not the same shade as your pants, make sure that it is darker than your shoes like this striking hand stitched leather Kiton belt.
Bright blue skies call for fun in the swimwear category. These 50's style patterned Rubinacci shorts are just the right style for either the pool side or a dip in the sea. With an original retail price of $150 and now only $49 in the Summer Sale, these swim shorts are a steal.
The Panama Hat is hand woven from superfino taquillo straw in Montecristi, Ecuador. It is a Fedora that you can wear in the extreme heat thanks to its antiperspirant headband.
Persol sunglasses are hand made in Italy and these tortoise Havana flame 3021s are stylish and available in the Sartoriale sale now for only $185, down from the retail price of $350.
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