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0 comments / Posted on by Mark Winter

Offering vintage menswear was always part of the Sartoriale concept. We have a great appreciation for exquisitely made, unique garments. Military surplus, vintage Americana and top tier tailoring alike. When the opportunity arises, we are keen to get our hands on never collected bespoke suits from storied makers like Anderson and Sheppard or Rubinacci.

 

One can reasonably assume, that finding the perfect fit, when purchasing a garment like this is not an easy task. Ready to wear garments are made from industrially standardized patterns, which helps to determine the best possible size for everybody. While bespoke suits are created after individual needs, you can only rely on body measurements, when deliberating on fit. However, based on our experience we always include an approximate RTW size on the item page.

An important advantage about these garments is that they are created with excess fabrication inside. This means that they can be let out on the back, if necessary. Therefore you can calculate with around 4cm extra at the waist and hip area. As with every jacket, the shoulder and neck size is crucial to get right for a clean, comfortable fit.

 

What makes this suits so attracting is that they are made to a specification, which you can rarely find in RTW tailoring. (Kiton and Cesare Attolini are the exceptions of this.) What we exactly mean by this is the fine hand construction of the garments. Thousands of hand stitches holding together the internal and external layers at the collar, shoulder and the chest. At Rubinacci this is achieved with light layers of canvas inside, which still creates a firm, appealing shape. Another crucial aspect is the cut and proportion which are both great signifiers of the house style of a certain maker. An Anderson and Sheppard double breasted jacket is a true grail piece, appreciated the world over for its sophisticated silhouette.

We find the history of the aforementioned houses intriguing as well, they carried the tradition of tailoring for a couple of hundred years combined, serving royal families, statesmen and the high society alike.

 

Vintage and never collected pieces offer a great opportunity to purchase something truly one of a kind and get a feel of bespoke tailoring for the fraction of the price. For somebody who is interested getting a suit made by a tailor, this can be the first dip into the water.

As with all future purchases at Sartoriale, we highly recommend to contact us for any inquiries about our products. Regardless it is a sizing issue or questions about cloth and style, we are always happy on hand to help you!

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