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Article: Navy Blazer Style Guide - Everything you need to know

Navy Blazer Style Guide - Everything you need to know

The classic navy blazer is a staple of any well-dressed man's wardrobe.

It is truly an essential because it is a timeless classic which can be worn in a multitude of combinations for different looks.

You can dress up your navy blazer as in the picture below or you dress it down into a preppy guy style or for Casual Friday. A navy blazer is truly a 'good for all occasions' menswear essential.

How to wear a navy blazer for men

 But how should you wear a navy blazer?

Follow our guide below on everything you need to know about navy blazers, which answers the most common FAQs on blazer style and you shall be the embodiment of sartorial sophistication.




When considering where blazer sleeves should fall, put on the jacket when standing upright: the end of your blazer sleeve should be no less than 1/2 an inch higher than the length of your shirt sleeve cuff.

In other words, the cut of your jacket sleeve should be slightly above the wrist line, always just exposing a little bit of your shirt cuff... but not too high to expose your cufflinks.

It is common for a poorly bought jacket to be overly long in the arm length - this is a school boy error, so do not fall foul of it!

How long should blazer sleeves be?



Do not wear black pants with a navy blazer - the two strong hues never harmonize well.

Additionally, never consider choosing a pair of navy blue trousers to complete your navy blazer outfit. The pants will almost certainly not be the exact same tint of blue as the jacket and will appear woefully mismatched. If a navy blue suit is your desire, then wear a navy blue suit, but do not attempt to concoct a suit from two disparate garments. 

Pale colors or pastel colored pants work best to complement the assertive navy blue.

As you can see in the pictures below, chinos that are beige, blonde or white match particularly well with either a single-breasted or double-breasted navy jacket. It matters not if you dress your look up or down according to the social event, the blue blazer plus light pants is a classic look of acknowledged distinction.


GET THE LOOK - Navy Blazer and white pants

This navy blue jacket below is hand made by the small bespoke tailoring house of Sartoria Chiaia in Naples. It has besom pockets (sometimes called 'slit pockets') and has the classic gold button look

Sartoria Chiaia Navy blue blazer

These hand made white slim fit pants, also by Sartoria Chiaia, are the perfect companion to a navy blue blazer.

White slim fit pants for men by Sartoria Chiaia



In a word, yes!

If you sit down with your blazer buttoned up, there will be undue strain on the back panels, stitching and seams. So, definitely unbutton your jacket when seated.



Yes, button up your blazer when standing. 

Suit jackets, blazers and sports coats are all designed and tailored to be buttoned up to show off the cut of the garment to its best.

However, there are a few caveats...


Three button jacket

Never do up the bottom button! 

The top button of 3 is optional, but if your blazer is well-cut, there should be no need to do up the top button to help with how the jacket sits on your torso.

So, with a 3-button jacket, the buttoning rule is: Sometimes, Always, Never

Top button: Sometimes/Optional

Middle button: Always

Bottom button: Never


Two button jacket

Again, never do up the bottom button! 




The short answer is: 2 or 3

2 buttons or 3 buttons on a suit jacket

Two Button Blazer

A 2-button blazer has the buttons placed lower on the jacket (this is known as the 'button stance').

This creates a deep V shape and gives the wearer the illusion of broader shoulders. This look can also be slimming and also it makes you appear taller. So, the 2-button choice is flattering to the wearer and is an absolute win-win.


Three Button Blazer

The three button choice is a much more traditional look; think Prince Charles. 

As there are more buttons (than the 2 button variety), this looks and feels more buttoned up, literally.

There is a higher button stance which gives an impression of a shallower V. This can actually help if you are very tall. For instance, if you are over 6'2", the shallow V can work well to give nice proportions to your look.

Overall, the 3 button look is a silhouette favoured by the more refined, sophisticated and mature gentleman who has achieved what he wants in life and knows how to show it.


One Button Blazer

The one button jacket can look a bit too 'try-hard'. It is definitely for the younger man only, looking to fly in the face of traditional tailoring.

As a one button blazer exposes more of the deep V, it is the choice for those who wish to show off a particularly rakish tie or shirt to maximum effect.


GET THE LOOK - 2 button navy blazer

Navy blue sports coat by Rubinacci

This Rubinacci bespoke navy blue sports coat is a completely unique item. Made from a wool mohair combination, double vented and fully lined, this brand new, hand made in Italy, jacket is currently half price from our original listing price in the Sartoriale Menswear Sale 


Brioni navy blue herringbone Jardigan jacket

The navy blue herringbone jacket (above) from Brioni is the 'Jardigan'. It is 90% wool and 10% silk, standing out not only for its shawl collar, but also for the rather grand buttons.



When it comes to matching a pocket square to your blazer, choose white cotton or one color linen for more formal occasions.

Printed silk or some quirky color and/or patterned pocket square is the usual choice for more casual wear, where there is room to show off your unique character.

A white pocket square is truly the classic navy blue blazer choice, but for a more muted feel, choose a light or soft blue. A gold or pink pocket square injects frivolity and joie de vivre into your look.

Kiton pocket squares for men

 All 3 pocket squares pictured above are brand new with tags from KitonAll are 100% silk and any choice would pair perfectly with your navy blazer.



Only have a crest if you personally have something to do with that crest; for example, if you are the member of a club or sports team with that crest.

A crest on a blazer is a real talking point and you will probably be asked what the crest is for, or what it means. If you have no affiliation or connection to the crest, it is a bit pretentious to have one on your breast pocket. 



You can complete your outfit with pretty much any footwear.

Match your shoe colour to your belt color, or perhaps to your navy blazer. You can go totally off-piste and have shoes that 'stick out'. 

The only thing we would not recommend is to wear sneakers like Converse All Stars, as this passes too far beyond the line of 'dressing down' and comes off as looking too affected and will ruin your otherwise carefully selected appearance.

Kiton shoes to go with navy blazer outfitThese leather Derby dress shoes (above left) from Vass in Budapest, are a perfect dark cognac for smartening up your outfit. 

The blue leather tassel loafers (middle pictureare an excellent casual choice from Kiton to pull off that 'Italian lawyer in Portofino in August' look.

The gray suede cap toe Oxford shoes (above right) are again from Kiton and they can go either way into dressing up or dressing down your overall feel.

For more shoe ideas, have a browse through the entire Sartoriale shoe collection.



INTERESTING: Why are new blazer pockets sewn up?

Firstly, a well-tailored blazer goes through myriad stages of construction and many master craftsmen's hands, so the pockets are stitched up in order that they do not collect cotton, wool, dust and fabric in the manufacturing process.

Secondly, if it is not a bespoke blazer made specifically to your individual measurements, it may be tried on by many customers before finally being purchased. With the pockets sewn up, no one can stuff their hands into them and misshape the cut before being bought by the eventual owner.

Then once you are the owner of the jacket, the question arises, should you open the stitches and use the pockets? The original purpose of the blazer pocket is a place for a gentleman to keep his opera or theatre ticket, or perhaps a cigar for the intermission!

You definitely should not place anything bulky in the pockets that would disturb the line of the jacket of the well-turned out man.



And finally, some dressed down blazer inspiration....

The navy blazer comes in many forms and can dress down to go supremely well with your best pair of road worn blue denim jeans!

Can I wear denim jeans with a navy blazer?





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